GR20, Alpine Variant in 12 days
GR20 is a legendary trail running through the interior of Corsica — from Calenzana in the north to Conca in the south. It is about 180 kilometres long and, in the classic version, divided into 16 stages. For years it has been considered the hardest long-distance trekking trail in Europe. That reputation comes not only from the big elevation gains and the technical rocky sections, but also from the summer heat, limited access to water, and the need to carry all your gear for many days.
There are several ways to walk the GR20. Besides the classic variant there are easier detours and more demanding alpine variants, following ridges and the most exposed parts of the mountains. This account comes from walking exactly that kind of version — with extra ascents of the main Corsican peaks, including Monte Cinto (2706 m), the highest point on the island, and Monte d’Oro (2389 m).
The whole route was done in 12 days, with a backpack and on my own feet, without shortening any stages. Where it was possible, I chose the harder variants that go higher and closer to the ridge, because those show the character of the GR20 best. That is also why this trail has stayed one of the biggest trekking challenges in Europe for years.
Photos from the trip:
Route map: mapy.com
Note: This report is a series of short entries recorded and written down during the GR20, at different moments — on climbs, during breaks, on easier stretches — or whenever something seemed worth capturing, for example a thought that could not wait, or soldiers passing on the trail. Because of that, there may be inconsistencies, repetitions and some fairly stupid remarks between the posts. Sorry. That is the effect of effort and Corsican sun.
Day -2 — Gdańsk, packing for the trip
A whole night of weighing and decisions over every hundred grams — how much food to take, what else can still be cut. In the end it came to 13.2 kg on my back, plus the camera on the shoulder straps. If there is Excel involved, you know it is serious. The room is still a mess; by the end of the day I have to reduce the entropy of this setup.
Day -1 — Gdańsk → Frankfurt → Munich → Bastia → Calvi
Before leaving I had maybe fifteen minutes to breathe, then the airport at 4:30 and two transfers. In Corsica it was 35 degrees straight away. The tourist information point was, as usual, less helpful than the internet, but I managed to send a parcel to Vizzavona and get a hotel after a cancelled booking. In the evening, veal with olives — and a short moment of stress when the camera stopped working after a fall. Fortunately it was only the battery.
Day 0 — Calvi → Calenzana
A last repack, coffee by the harbour and the citadel in the hottest part of the day. I was supposed to walk about eight kilometres uphill to Calenzana, but I did not even try to hitchhike — a woman stopped and offered a lift almost to the gîte itself. In the evening, SPAR, the metallic taste of the water at the hostel, and a beer at the bar. Alarm set for 4:30; the heat is what I am most worried about.
Day 1 — Calenzana → Ortu di u Piobbu → Carozzu
Two classic stages in one day. Start before six, more shade this time than last year, but the new shoes still rubbed — supposedly tested, and yet. On the way I was jealous of the tiny packs of the trail runners. To Ortu faster than planned, then the ridge, scrambling and a careful descent; at Carozzu a few minutes after seven, just in time for the reservation and a shower before they closed it.
Day 2 — Carozzu → Ascu Stagnu
Day 3 — Ascu Stagnu → Monte Cinto → Tighjettu
Day 4 — Tighjettu → Ciottulu di i Mori
Day 5 — Ciottulu di i Mori → Manganu
Day 6 — Manganu → Petra Piana
Day 7 — Petra Piana → l’Onda → Vizzavona
Day 8 — Vizzavona → E Capannelle
Day 9 — E Capannelle → Prati
Day 10 — Prati → Usciolu → Matalza
Day 11 — Matalza → Asinau → I Paliri
Day 12 — I Paliri → Conca
Day 13 — Conca → Bastia